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Ocean surface waves are surface waves which occur at the surface of an ocean. That is, a wave that is guided along the interface between water and air. As the wind blows, pressure and friction forces associated with the wind perturb the equilibrium of the ocean surface. The wind actually transfers some of its energy into the water. The water is able to gain energy from the wind because of the friction between the wind and the water. This causes the surface particles to move in an elliptical motion, which is a combination of longitudinal (back and forth) and transverse (up and down) wave motions.
Originally made of wood or balsa the first surfboards were often over 15 feet in length and extremely heavy. The major advances over the years were the addition of a fin on the bottom rear of the board to improve directional stability and a change of materials.
Modern surfboards are made of polystyrene foam covered with layers of fibreglass matting and epoxy resin. The end result is a light and strong surfboard that is buoyant and manoeuverable. Long-boards as the name suggests are longer (7-12ft), and also thicker, wider and with a more rounded nose than a short-board. Short-boards are shorter (5-7ft), thinner, and have a more pointed nose. They are not as wide as long-boards and are typically more maneuverable. ...
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